Thursday, June 28, 2012
Photos 6/26-27 Schiltach to Höfen- part 2
Riding over the top of a hill in the Black Forest. Unfortunately we took the wrong road down, and had to climb all the way back up 200 meters. Dinner in Bad Wiltbad- roast beef with onions, pork chops in a mushroom sauce, knödel, spätzel, and salads, plus beers. There was grass growing in the middle of our table (intentionally). Watching Spain vs. Portugal in the Weltmeister (Euro Cup) with other campers at our campsite in Höfen. We drank hefeweizen during the game, poured properly and into the correct glassware even at the campsite kiosk bar.
Photos 6/26-27 Schiltach to Höfen- part 1
Beer with dinner in Schiltach. Cool wrought metal signs for businesses are common- this swan bar was in Alpirsbach, where they brew the beer we drank the night before. The name of the town supposedly comes from a monk and brewer who was fond of his product, and one day, drunkenly spilling his beer in the stream, exclaimed 'alle bier ist in der bach'. Pretzel with seeds and strawberry jelly cake from a bakery in Alpirsbach. Riding through a not-so-dark segment of the Black Forest.
Tuesday, June 26, 2012
Black Forest: Offenburg to Schiltach 6/26
74 km today. Bike tube vending machine, in case you get a flat while the bike store is closed. Marktplatz in Offenburg- there was an open-air farmers market thing when we were there in the morning. Castle on a hill in Ohlsbach, surrounded by orchards and vineyards. We bought some cherries from a farm stand nearby, but have not yet tried them as we've been waiting for a source of water to wash them. A shot of the edge of the Black Forest woods. The trees are suddenly very tall and thick, with not much new growth around the edges. I'll try to get a better picture soon, but I bet it really is dark and creepy in there. Campsite in Schiltach.
Dinner in Offenburg 6/25
Germany is reasonably priced. Falafel plate, giant doner sandwich, bread, and beer all ran $15. The beer was only $2, and tasty.
Photos from 6/25- Stechelberg to Offenburg
View of our campsite in Stechelberg, CH on the rainy morning we left. Outside the Basel train station. Lunch on the train- hazelnut yogurt rivals skyr in my book for favorite dairy product of the trip, with some of the Gruyere I've had a close second. Bike route from Strasbourg to Offenburg, flat, smooth, running through farmland.
The cost of mistakes
I suppose when traveling there are known mistakes and unknown mistakes, and we go to Europe with the information we have, not the information we want. I of course have made mistakes that I didn't ever notice so far on this trip, but I've also made a few that I know of, and they're interesting to me in part because the cost has been quantifiable, and because of the distinct decisions that led to them.
On the big scheme of things, they're tiny. I left my European electrical adapter plugged into a socket at a campsite in Olafsvik, Iceland. Replacement cost at a mall was $12, a lot more than Amazon, plus any opportunity cost for the time spent hunting for adapters. I'm counting opportunity cost a zero, though, since going to that mall involved some fun exploration and resulted in us finding some Icelandic microbrews we would not have otherwise.
Two days ago I left behind the Ubu bike water bottl from Lake Placid Brewery at a cable car in Switzeland. By the time we got back down, it was gone, and searching the lost and found, recycling bins, and garbage bins all suggest that someone else took it. I hope they enjoy it. Sorry for losing the bottle, Daria, and I'll buy you a new one when we go back to the brewery. Replacement cost was $8.75 at a bike store in Offenberg, which did not sell the bike maps we were looking for, but we would have checked anyway. So opportunity cost was low.
Finally, just a few minutes ago we hit an Aldi for groceries. I paid with a 50 note for 8.83 of groceries to break the bill, even though I had small change. They don't give you plastic bags at most grocery stores, but I had decided not to bring in my spare bag, that I could just balance the small amount of groceries out the door. Finally, after receiving my change, I hurried to gather my groceries to make room for the person behind me. It wasn't until I had packed the groceries onto the bike that I realized I had dropped one of the two 20 euro notes I'd gotten as change. Of course it was long gone by the time I looked for it. This is not the main reason I don't use cash in the US, but the complete lack of ownership information is, for me at least, a bug, not a feature. Being out $25 just like that is pretty irritating, especially given the (perhaps irrational) extents I would go to in order to save that much money.
I keep trying to just breathe deeply and not let silly mistakes spoil my mood, but they certainly are irritating.
Sent from my phone
On the big scheme of things, they're tiny. I left my European electrical adapter plugged into a socket at a campsite in Olafsvik, Iceland. Replacement cost at a mall was $12, a lot more than Amazon, plus any opportunity cost for the time spent hunting for adapters. I'm counting opportunity cost a zero, though, since going to that mall involved some fun exploration and resulted in us finding some Icelandic microbrews we would not have otherwise.
Two days ago I left behind the Ubu bike water bottl from Lake Placid Brewery at a cable car in Switzeland. By the time we got back down, it was gone, and searching the lost and found, recycling bins, and garbage bins all suggest that someone else took it. I hope they enjoy it. Sorry for losing the bottle, Daria, and I'll buy you a new one when we go back to the brewery. Replacement cost was $8.75 at a bike store in Offenberg, which did not sell the bike maps we were looking for, but we would have checked anyway. So opportunity cost was low.
Finally, just a few minutes ago we hit an Aldi for groceries. I paid with a 50 note for 8.83 of groceries to break the bill, even though I had small change. They don't give you plastic bags at most grocery stores, but I had decided not to bring in my spare bag, that I could just balance the small amount of groceries out the door. Finally, after receiving my change, I hurried to gather my groceries to make room for the person behind me. It wasn't until I had packed the groceries onto the bike that I realized I had dropped one of the two 20 euro notes I'd gotten as change. Of course it was long gone by the time I looked for it. This is not the main reason I don't use cash in the US, but the complete lack of ownership information is, for me at least, a bug, not a feature. Being out $25 just like that is pretty irritating, especially given the (perhaps irrational) extents I would go to in order to save that much money.
I keep trying to just breathe deeply and not let silly mistakes spoil my mood, but they certainly are irritating.
Sent from my phone
3 countries, Stechelberg, CH to Offenberg, DE 6/25
We hit 3 countries today, but only biked 36.75 miles. We woke up in the morning to pouring rain on our tent (and my laundry drying outside), rolled over and went back to sleep, and finally got moving in a light rain and fog. We rode from our campsite in Stechelberg down the valley back to Interlaken, where we caught a train to Strasbourg, France via Basel. We arranged it this way to pick up my dad's suitcase, which we'd sent via Swiss rail to be stored in Basel. Strasbourg is where we're storing the suitcase now, in the hotel to which we'll return in about a week for the leg with Libby and neighbors. Strasbourg is also a good launching point to visit the Black Forest, our next goal.
The Swiss rail system is very impressive- fast, clean, silent trains running punctually and regularly. They're not cheap, but compared to everything else in the country, they're value for money. Bikes cost us $20 extra for each of us in Switzerland, but they may have been free in France (no one ever checked the ticket).
We had a bit of a layover in Basel, but once we found the baggage storage office, it took only an efficient moment for my dad to get his bag.
This contrasts sharply with Strasbourg, where I tried to reserve a spot on my TGV to the airport for my bike. I waited in long lines at the ticket office, and once I got to the front, had to wait for one of the 2 English-speaking agents. One had a 'closing in 5 minutes' sign, but was busy selling about 18 tickets to a French speaker. The other had no such sign, but was also busy. 10 or so minutes roll by, and both English booths promptly close- one of which with no warning whatsoever. I asked other agents if they spoke English or Spanish or (snarkily) Chinese, but no go. So, frustrated at the Kafkaesque process, I bailed. My dad talked me into trying again. At a different set of ticket windows, there were no English signs, but I was determined to pidgin French my way through. I conveyed what I wanted- reservation, bicycle, TGV train number, date, but couldn't understand the answer. Fortunately, this ticket agent went and found the English-speaking manager, who told me that I was out of luck, and no matter what the internet says, I had to buy my ticket and reserve the bike at the same time. You can't even make bike reservations online. The logic behind having to do this all at once is incomprehensible to me.
Across the border to Germany, our 3rd country of the day, we rode through perfectly flat an nicely packed tracks running through farm land. We had searched for camping in the area, and had found Camping Kuhn in Offenburg. Of course, when we arrived, it was in an industrial park and they sold RVs. Fortunately people in the parking lot gave us directions to a campsite nearby. When we arrived, however, the gates were locked and there was a sign saying they were closed for weather. There were RVs there, though, and someone loaned us a cell phone to call the number on the gate. We got in and set up the tent, but one of the other RVers had to loan us their key to get into the toilet or out the front gate, and we couldn't open the door to the showers. We were about to use the key to go find some dinner in town when yet another of the RVers walked over and asked in German if we would like the leftover bratwurst they'd grilled with dinner. So we sat at their RV, and they generously gave us bread, salad, beer, and sausage while my dad talked to them in German and they tried to help conversation along. I didn't understand much at all, but they were 3 older siblings visiting the area, and we talked a bit about Germany and America, soccer and government.
We finally left and found more food at a kebab shop in town. Dinner and beer ran $15 total- very reasonable for the amount of food.
We couldn't leave until the owner arrived at 9 the next morning, but the price was 10 euro (fine) and everyone was so nice it ended up being a pleasant experience.
Sent from my phone
The Swiss rail system is very impressive- fast, clean, silent trains running punctually and regularly. They're not cheap, but compared to everything else in the country, they're value for money. Bikes cost us $20 extra for each of us in Switzerland, but they may have been free in France (no one ever checked the ticket).
We had a bit of a layover in Basel, but once we found the baggage storage office, it took only an efficient moment for my dad to get his bag.
This contrasts sharply with Strasbourg, where I tried to reserve a spot on my TGV to the airport for my bike. I waited in long lines at the ticket office, and once I got to the front, had to wait for one of the 2 English-speaking agents. One had a 'closing in 5 minutes' sign, but was busy selling about 18 tickets to a French speaker. The other had no such sign, but was also busy. 10 or so minutes roll by, and both English booths promptly close- one of which with no warning whatsoever. I asked other agents if they spoke English or Spanish or (snarkily) Chinese, but no go. So, frustrated at the Kafkaesque process, I bailed. My dad talked me into trying again. At a different set of ticket windows, there were no English signs, but I was determined to pidgin French my way through. I conveyed what I wanted- reservation, bicycle, TGV train number, date, but couldn't understand the answer. Fortunately, this ticket agent went and found the English-speaking manager, who told me that I was out of luck, and no matter what the internet says, I had to buy my ticket and reserve the bike at the same time. You can't even make bike reservations online. The logic behind having to do this all at once is incomprehensible to me.
Across the border to Germany, our 3rd country of the day, we rode through perfectly flat an nicely packed tracks running through farm land. We had searched for camping in the area, and had found Camping Kuhn in Offenburg. Of course, when we arrived, it was in an industrial park and they sold RVs. Fortunately people in the parking lot gave us directions to a campsite nearby. When we arrived, however, the gates were locked and there was a sign saying they were closed for weather. There were RVs there, though, and someone loaned us a cell phone to call the number on the gate. We got in and set up the tent, but one of the other RVers had to loan us their key to get into the toilet or out the front gate, and we couldn't open the door to the showers. We were about to use the key to go find some dinner in town when yet another of the RVers walked over and asked in German if we would like the leftover bratwurst they'd grilled with dinner. So we sat at their RV, and they generously gave us bread, salad, beer, and sausage while my dad talked to them in German and they tried to help conversation along. I didn't understand much at all, but they were 3 older siblings visiting the area, and we talked a bit about Germany and America, soccer and government.
We finally left and found more food at a kebab shop in town. Dinner and beer ran $15 total- very reasonable for the amount of food.
We couldn't leave until the owner arrived at 9 the next morning, but the price was 10 euro (fine) and everyone was so nice it ended up being a pleasant experience.
Sent from my phone
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