It's taken me a while, but I've increasingly come to a simple conclusion- I hate China. I'm willing to accept that I may just hate Beijing, since in reality I haven't spent much time in other parts of the country, but I definitely hate something.
Let me start with the Beijing-specific.
Who builds a megacity, a seat of power over an exploding (I'll not say booming) economy, here? It's perched on the edge of the world's biggest desert. It's not at the mouth of a navigable river, or on a strategic port. It's far enough North that the winters are brutal, made worse by the complete lack of moisture to retain heat at night. It's in a valley that traps pollution, so when the sky isn't sleet-grey it's tinged with the browns and yellows of poisons.
The accent in Beijing is jarring. Spoken Chinese can hardly be described as a beautiful language, at least to our Western sensibilities, but even in China the Beijing accent is considered the worst. Imagine, if you will, taxi drivers who are incapable of understanding "Park the car in Harvard Yard", and need the proper accent applied to the sentence for a glimmer of recognition to flutter in their alcohol-shot eyes. Beijing-hua is best spoken with a nasal whine, with a liberal application of Rs to the ends of words.
There is disturbing poverty within a literal stone's-throw of the Great Hall of the People. I'll post pictures of the slums South of Tiananmen soon, but they're truly decrepit. This a block from the black-tinted windows of the black Audis with black government plates.
I live in a rich neighborhood, surrounded by expats and the wealthiest Chinese. Not 30 minutes ago I was in Jenny Lou's, a grocery store that caters to foreigners with its imported goods. The faceless and absent Mrs. Lou is a despicable bitch, however, and would gladly gut your children for an extra dollar's profit. Nevertheless, the place has a monopoly on Triscuits and Macaroni, so we foreign devils pay our king's ransom and smile as she twists the knife. I did not, you'll note, restrictively refer to myself and my foreign colleagues as 'capitalist running dogs' or 'capitalist roaders'. I think it should be clear why. I can understand why foreigners, far from home, would fork over wads of cash for longed-for luxuries. I cannot, however, understand why Chinese locals will pay the same obscene markups for vegetables, fruit, and meats that are no different from those at the Chinese grocer down the street. Watching the Chinese couple in front of me pay $150 for a grocery bill (an astronomic sum nearly equal to a month's salary for your average white-collar Beijing worker), I saw no other option but to dump my loose change into the cups of the beggars outside the store.
The spitting. I have no way of describing it for those of you who haven't visited. There are 3 sounds I'm unable to escape: construction, horns, and HAAAGHH. It's not polite spitting, it's lung-clearing, projectile expulsions. Sometimes a gentleman in a suit will stop on the sidewalk, plug one nostril with a finger, close his mouth, and exhale sharply.
If you're not dodging phlegm, you're dodging cigarette butts (still lit), taxi bumpers, and bicyclists on cell phones.
Beer is expensive and disgusting. Daria and I had drinks at my coworker James's place last weekend, and I felt great the next morning. I'd gotten used to Chinese hangovers, caused by impure alcohol with all its formaldehyde and God knows what. Drinking imported Western liquor, even in quantities, is healthy by comparison. Tsingtao has almost no flavor, no bubbles, no color, and no alcohol. Besides a mild, soapy aftertaste, what's the point? I'm simply unable to drink Chinese liquor. Some pansy-ass Chinese gentleman informed me it was because Western men weren't 'used to' such strong alcohol (the Chinese is more like 'capable of being used to'). I responded by pulling out a hip flask of scotch and inviting him to try what Western men drank. That's another thing- the cultural elitism. China is great, grand, and flawless. I understand that they're restricted in their exposure to media, but the logical disconnect between wanting to be like us and thinking that they're already far superior to us is sort of mind-boggling.
Environmental bombardment. The air hurts, the people make me sick, the noise is penetrating. When I went to Thailand, what amazed me the most was the skies. I'd honestly forgotten that sky was so blue and that clouds were so fluffy. Isn't that depressing?
I go on about the little things that I hate about living here, and it really is little things that build up to make it intolerable, but the worst is that I don't know what's good about this place- I just can't find it. The food can be good. There are occasionally things that are cool, like the red stars on granite, but then I realize that they're cool because they're symbols for things that are blessedly-absent at home.
I've had fun on some of the days when I've been a tourist. There are breathtakingly beautiful buildings and parks here, you just have to seek them out. The problem is that they're not integrated into the city. It's not like Central Park, or the Common, where you just walk through as you get out of the subway on your way to work. To get into the Summer Palace, or even pedestrian Chaoyang Park, you have to pay an entry fee and fight through the throngs of tourists. There is great beauty here, but it's all labeled as such and priced accordingly.
All of this, plus a lack of job satisfaction, an absence of good friends, and steadily declining weight (and health?) combine to make me strongly consider moving back home in the spring. I'm still weighing options, and I think I've found a good English teaching gig here, but I don't know whether the investment of time and mental health will pay off in terms of Chinese learned and resulting career benefits. As much as I was eager to get out of Boston, I think about it rather fondly from here. So besides looking at teaching jobs here I'm looking at lab positions in NYC, Boston, and San Francisco. I don't know how I'll make the eventual decision.
Friday, November 30, 2007
Friday, November 16, 2007
It sure looks like the world is ending.
This Global Incident Map is pretty amazing, but what's actually shocking to me is how closely it resembles CNN or Fox News or any other media source.
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Rules of the Road, Beijing Style
Unfortunately, none of the material in this post is mine. I found and edited the Rules of the Road, and I received the diagrams and descriptions in an email from a friend. No one seems to know where they originated from.
Rules of the Road, Beijing
1. Me First
2. Impeding the progress of others is equivalent to making progress yourself
5. (for taxis): Road rules can be violated at will, except when (a) there is a police vehicle in the vicinity; or (b) the passenger suggests violating a rule, at which point rules must be followed
6. The vehicle traveling straight on an unimpeded roadway never has the right-of-way
7. If ever in doubt about what to do in a driving situation, refer to rule #1
To introduce you to the intricacies of Beijing driving, I will start with a relatively simple concept: the left turn.
STEP 1:
We see here a typical intersection. The light has just turned green for the east-west streets, and car [A], an enormous black Lexus with pitch black windows, wants to make a left turn into the southbound lanes. Pedestrians wait on each corner. (For purposes of this demonstration, we'll assume no one is running the north-south red light, and no one is jaywalking - a rather large assumption.)
STEP 2:
To make a left turn, it is VITAL that [A] cut off all eastbound traffic as soon as possible. The first few brave or foolish legitimate pedestrians step off the curb; this is of no concern. [A] makes his move.
STEP 3:
NO! Too slow! [A] has managed to partially block [B], a brand new purple and yellow Hyundai taxi, but [A] has only achieved what Beijing drivers would consider a 'weak' blocking position.
STEP 4:
In this detail, we can see why: [A] has only inserted his left bumper and cannot move forward without contact. [B], on the other hand, is in the dominant position - by putting his wheel hard to the right and flooring it, he can fully block [A].
STEP 5:
[B] proceeds to swerve right, cutting off [C], a tiny red Peugeot with a gold plastic dragon hood ornament, spoiler and assorted knobs glued on. Since [B] is just accelerating, and [C] is now decelerating, this has created a low-density 'dead space' in the intersection. [D], a strange blue tricycle dumptruck carrying what appear to be 40 of the world's oldest propane tanks, sees this and makes a move.
STEP 6:
DENIED! [E], an old red taxi with its name sloppily stenciled in white on its doors, has boldly cut across two lanes of traffic, behind [D], and then swerved right, driving [D] into an extremely weak position behind [A]. Meanwhile, [B] and [C] are still fighting for position, with [C] muscling his way into the crosswalk. The only thing between [E] and a successful left turn is a few lawful pedestrians. [E] steps on the gas...
STEP 7:
...and is cut off by [F], an elderly man pedaling his tricycle verrrryyy slooooowwwly with a 15-foot-diameter sphere of empty plastic cooking oil bottles bungee-corded haphazardly to the cargo area. He was part of the lawful pedestrians, but seeing the stalled traffic, decided to cut diagonally across the intersection. Not only has [F] blocked [E], he is headed straight at [B], giving [C] the edge he needs.
STEP 8:
[B] concedes to [C], who drives in the crosswalk behind [F] and blocks [E]. Meanwhile, [G], a herd of about 20 bicycles, mopeds, pedestrians and wheelbarrows, sensing weakness in the eastbound lane and seeing that much of the westbound traffic is blocked behind [D], breaks north against the light. [F] pedals doggedly onward at about 2 miles per hour, his face like chiseled marble.
STEP 9:
Now things get interesting. [C] has broken free and, as the first vehicle to get where he was going, wins. [E] makes a move to block [B] but, like [A] at the start of the left turn, only gains a 'weak' block. [A] has cleverly let [F] pass and guns into a crowd of [G], which both moves [A] forward and drives some [G] stragglers into the path of [D], clearing [A]'s flanks. Little now stands between [A] and a strong second-place finish.
STEP 10:
Except for public bus [H], one of those double buses with the accordion-thing connector. [H] has been screaming unnoticed along the eastbound sidewalk and now careens dangerously into a U-turn. This doesn't appear to concern the 112 people packed inside and pressed against the windows (although that could be due to a lack of oxygen.) [H] completely blocks both [A] and [D]. On the other side of the intersection, [B] has swerved into the lawful pedestrians (who aren't important enough to warrant a letter) and has gained position on [E].
[E] has forgotten the face of his father: He was so focused on his battle with [B] that he lost sight of the ultimate goal and is now hopelessly out of position.
This clears the path for dark horse [I], a blue Buick Lacrosse, to cut all the way across behind [H] and become the second vehicle to get where he was going (and the first to complete a left turn), since [F] has changed his mind again and is now gradually drifting north into the southbound lanes. But everyone better hurry, because the light is about to change...
STEP 11:
STEP 12:
And we're ready to start over.
Below, some real pictures of Chinese traffic:
edit: It's the small things in the story that make it art, in my mind- The old man on the bike with a face like chiseled marble, the Audi gunning it into pedestrians, the tiny tiny red Peugeot with a gold plastic dragon hood ornament, spoiler and assorted knobs. The author zeroed in on some great stereotypes.
Rules of the Road, Beijing
1. Me First
2. Impeding the progress of others is equivalent to making progress yourself
5. (for taxis): Road rules can be violated at will, except when (a) there is a police vehicle in the vicinity; or (b) the passenger suggests violating a rule, at which point rules must be followed
6. The vehicle traveling straight on an unimpeded roadway never has the right-of-way
7. If ever in doubt about what to do in a driving situation, refer to rule #1
To introduce you to the intricacies of Beijing driving, I will start with a relatively simple concept: the left turn.
STEP 1:
We see here a typical intersection. The light has just turned green for the east-west streets, and car [A], an enormous black Lexus with pitch black windows, wants to make a left turn into the southbound lanes. Pedestrians wait on each corner. (For purposes of this demonstration, we'll assume no one is running the north-south red light, and no one is jaywalking - a rather large assumption.)
STEP 2:
To make a left turn, it is VITAL that [A] cut off all eastbound traffic as soon as possible. The first few brave or foolish legitimate pedestrians step off the curb; this is of no concern. [A] makes his move.
STEP 3:
NO! Too slow! [A] has managed to partially block [B], a brand new purple and yellow Hyundai taxi, but [A] has only achieved what Beijing drivers would consider a 'weak' blocking position.
STEP 4:
In this detail, we can see why: [A] has only inserted his left bumper and cannot move forward without contact. [B], on the other hand, is in the dominant position - by putting his wheel hard to the right and flooring it, he can fully block [A].
STEP 5:
[B] proceeds to swerve right, cutting off [C], a tiny red Peugeot with a gold plastic dragon hood ornament, spoiler and assorted knobs glued on. Since [B] is just accelerating, and [C] is now decelerating, this has created a low-density 'dead space' in the intersection. [D], a strange blue tricycle dumptruck carrying what appear to be 40 of the world's oldest propane tanks, sees this and makes a move.
STEP 6:
DENIED! [E], an old red taxi with its name sloppily stenciled in white on its doors, has boldly cut across two lanes of traffic, behind [D], and then swerved right, driving [D] into an extremely weak position behind [A]. Meanwhile, [B] and [C] are still fighting for position, with [C] muscling his way into the crosswalk. The only thing between [E] and a successful left turn is a few lawful pedestrians. [E] steps on the gas...
STEP 7:
...and is cut off by [F], an elderly man pedaling his tricycle verrrryyy slooooowwwly with a 15-foot-diameter sphere of empty plastic cooking oil bottles bungee-corded haphazardly to the cargo area. He was part of the lawful pedestrians, but seeing the stalled traffic, decided to cut diagonally across the intersection. Not only has [F] blocked [E], he is headed straight at [B], giving [C] the edge he needs.
STEP 8:
[B] concedes to [C], who drives in the crosswalk behind [F] and blocks [E]. Meanwhile, [G], a herd of about 20 bicycles, mopeds, pedestrians and wheelbarrows, sensing weakness in the eastbound lane and seeing that much of the westbound traffic is blocked behind [D], breaks north against the light. [F] pedals doggedly onward at about 2 miles per hour, his face like chiseled marble.
STEP 9:
Now things get interesting. [C] has broken free and, as the first vehicle to get where he was going, wins. [E] makes a move to block [B] but, like [A] at the start of the left turn, only gains a 'weak' block. [A] has cleverly let [F] pass and guns into a crowd of [G], which both moves [A] forward and drives some [G] stragglers into the path of [D], clearing [A]'s flanks. Little now stands between [A] and a strong second-place finish.
STEP 10:
Except for public bus [H], one of those double buses with the accordion-thing connector. [H] has been screaming unnoticed along the eastbound sidewalk and now careens dangerously into a U-turn. This doesn't appear to concern the 112 people packed inside and pressed against the windows (although that could be due to a lack of oxygen.) [H] completely blocks both [A] and [D]. On the other side of the intersection, [B] has swerved into the lawful pedestrians (who aren't important enough to warrant a letter) and has gained position on [E].
[E] has forgotten the face of his father: He was so focused on his battle with [B] that he lost sight of the ultimate goal and is now hopelessly out of position.
This clears the path for dark horse [I], a blue Buick Lacrosse, to cut all the way across behind [H] and become the second vehicle to get where he was going (and the first to complete a left turn), since [F] has changed his mind again and is now gradually drifting north into the southbound lanes. But everyone better hurry, because the light is about to change...
STEP 11:
STEP 12:
And we're ready to start over.
Below, some real pictures of Chinese traffic:
edit: It's the small things in the story that make it art, in my mind- The old man on the bike with a face like chiseled marble, the Audi gunning it into pedestrians, the tiny tiny red Peugeot with a gold plastic dragon hood ornament, spoiler and assorted knobs. The author zeroed in on some great stereotypes.
Who IS that masked laowai?
Mask Week is a not-a-protest being organized by some guys on the That's Beijing forums.
I, for one, will be wearing a cheap, ineffective paper mask, starting on 11/17 ('yao yao yao qi', which also means 'want want want air').
The idea is simple.
1. Buy a mask. (The best one possible to protect you from air pollutants) Still, simple cloth masks, although not very effective can still raise awareness. You can buy them cheaply in local pharmacies, supermarkets and so on.
2. From the time you wake up on the 17th to the time you go to bed on the 24th wear a mask whenever you go outside. Just live your daily life but when you step out the door, wear a mask. (Yes we realize that indoor air pollution is more dangerous because it is concentrated but this is aiming at outdoor air pollution.)
...
Mask Week's goal is to promote dialogue about air pollution's dangers and its consequences. For many people who have grown up with air pollution, having gray skies and smog is "just the way it is." Many say they are used to it and others simply say there is nothing that can be done. Meanwhile, babies are being born defective, cancer is rising, and people are dying prematurely because of at least in part from air pollution. Mask Week is to get people moving. To stop people from accepting air pollution as the way things have to be. Talking to others is an important first step to change. And this is what Mask Week seeks to do. Get people talking about solutions so that more and more people can live happy and healthy lives.
I, for one, will be wearing a cheap, ineffective paper mask, starting on 11/17 ('yao yao yao qi', which also means 'want want want air').
Monday, November 12, 2007
Buy Prada, support the Motherland!
The whole video is an interesting look at Xinjiang, China's western-most, largest, and maybe most resource-rich province. I knew that China had been sending ethnic Han workers out to the province's cities to 'dilute' the Muslim influence and try to bring the population more into line with the rest of the country, and this documentary touches on the issue.
My favorite part, though, is the swearing-in ceremony of new Communist Party members in the last minute or so. They swear to fight for communism with all their might, at the same time wearing imported clothing in Western styles.
Also, while looking for work today, I found a middle school searching for a business teacher. "Remember, kids. China's a communist country. Buy Prada, support the motherland!"
Wednesday, November 7, 2007
I wonder whether I can hold my breath for 2 more months.
According to SEPA, the Chinese government environmental agency, today's Air Pollution Index is 253, a 4B rating.
Let's see what the good folk at SEPA have to say about such a rating:
Let's look over at our friends at the US EPA. They calculate API on the same 0-500 scale as SEPA. What do they have to say about a 253 score?
Now, while the scale used is the same, it's normalized differently. 100 is set as the baseline, acceptable level of a pollutant. It took some digging to try to match these scales, since standards are recorded in different units and different time scales in different places. I settled on the National Ambient Air Quality Standards (NAAQS) for EPA data, and Environmental Air Quality Standard (GB3095-1996) (word document, in Chinese) for SEPA. Here's my comparison:
Ozone:
EPA used to use a 1-hour averaging measurement, with the normal level set at 0.235mg/m3. In 2005 the EPA revoked the 1-hour measurement in favor of a more meaningful 8-hour average, and lowered the acceptable level to 0.176mg/m3 averaged over the 8 hours.
SEPA uses a 1-hour averaging measurement, with the normal level set at .2mg/m3. So while their standard is lower then the EPA's old 1-hour standard, it's generally considered an inadequate measure.
Particulate Matter (PM):
The EPA measures two kinds of particulates, PM10 and PM2.5. PM10 is 10 microns across or less, and PM2.5 is 2.5 microns across or less. Allowable levels are .15mg/m3 and .035mg/m3 respectively.
SEPA also measures PM10, and has an identical allowable level, but does not measure PM2.5.
PM10 is about 1/4 the diameter of a grain of salt. It's small dust, basically. It gets into your lungs and inflames them, clogging things up. You cough and hack, but my impression is that your body flushes it out. PM2.5 is considered more dangerous- it goes into your blood stream, relatively unfiltered by your respiratory tract. So while the PM10 standards are the same here, PM2.5 is ignored in China.
Carbon monoxide (CO):
Carbon monoxide affects the respiratory, cardiovascular, and central nervous systems. The EPA allows 40mg/m3 an hour, and SEPA only allows 10mg/m3 an hour. This seems like a much more stringent standard, but more on that later.
NO2 and SO2-
This is harder to compare. EPA uses an annual average of .1mg/m3 for NOx, all nitrous oxides, and SEPA uses a .12mg/m3 limit of NO2 per day. So the timeframe is different, as are the exact pollutants allowed. It's normal for the hour number to be higher than the day which is higher than the year, the idea being that your body can take a quick shock more than prolonged exposure.
Similarly, SEPA uses .15mg/m3 a day for SO2, where the EPA uses .364mg/m3 a day for SOx. This to me seems to be the one category where SEPA's standards are stricter.
Conclusions-
The allowable levels seem to be slightly lower for pollutants in China. Here's the kicker, though: While SEPA has these standards, their monitoring center only measures SO2, NO2, and PM. So their stricter CO standards don't seem to factor in, and apparently neither does their O3 limit. This seems significant to me. Only as I was walking into my apartment today did I identify the smell- ozone. So after a bunch more reading, including the formulas for pollution index calculation, I still don't know how comparable the numbers are. Let's stretch and say they correlate perfectly, and read what the EPA has to say about a pollution index of 253:
In other words, hold your breaths. I'm looking forward to moving somewhere the sun isn't a red disk in a sleet-grey sky.
Let's see what the good folk at SEPA have to say about such a rating:
4B, 251-300, Moderate-heavy polluted. The symptoms of the cardiac and lung disease patients aggravate remarkably, and the exercise endurance drop lower. The healthy crowds popularly appear some symptoms. The aged, cardiac and lung disease patients should stay indoors and reduce physical activities.
Let's look over at our friends at the US EPA. They calculate API on the same 0-500 scale as SEPA. What do they have to say about a 253 score?
Now, while the scale used is the same, it's normalized differently. 100 is set as the baseline, acceptable level of a pollutant. It took some digging to try to match these scales, since standards are recorded in different units and different time scales in different places. I settled on the National Ambient Air Quality Standards (NAAQS) for EPA data, and Environmental Air Quality Standard (GB3095-1996) (word document, in Chinese) for SEPA. Here's my comparison:
Ozone:
EPA used to use a 1-hour averaging measurement, with the normal level set at 0.235mg/m3. In 2005 the EPA revoked the 1-hour measurement in favor of a more meaningful 8-hour average, and lowered the acceptable level to 0.176mg/m3 averaged over the 8 hours.
SEPA uses a 1-hour averaging measurement, with the normal level set at .2mg/m3. So while their standard is lower then the EPA's old 1-hour standard, it's generally considered an inadequate measure.
Particulate Matter (PM):
The EPA measures two kinds of particulates, PM10 and PM2.5. PM10 is 10 microns across or less, and PM2.5 is 2.5 microns across or less. Allowable levels are .15mg/m3 and .035mg/m3 respectively.
SEPA also measures PM10, and has an identical allowable level, but does not measure PM2.5.
PM10 is about 1/4 the diameter of a grain of salt. It's small dust, basically. It gets into your lungs and inflames them, clogging things up. You cough and hack, but my impression is that your body flushes it out. PM2.5 is considered more dangerous- it goes into your blood stream, relatively unfiltered by your respiratory tract. So while the PM10 standards are the same here, PM2.5 is ignored in China.
Carbon monoxide (CO):
Carbon monoxide affects the respiratory, cardiovascular, and central nervous systems. The EPA allows 40mg/m3 an hour, and SEPA only allows 10mg/m3 an hour. This seems like a much more stringent standard, but more on that later.
NO2 and SO2-
This is harder to compare. EPA uses an annual average of .1mg/m3 for NOx, all nitrous oxides, and SEPA uses a .12mg/m3 limit of NO2 per day. So the timeframe is different, as are the exact pollutants allowed. It's normal for the hour number to be higher than the day which is higher than the year, the idea being that your body can take a quick shock more than prolonged exposure.
Similarly, SEPA uses .15mg/m3 a day for SO2, where the EPA uses .364mg/m3 a day for SOx. This to me seems to be the one category where SEPA's standards are stricter.
Conclusions-
The allowable levels seem to be slightly lower for pollutants in China. Here's the kicker, though: While SEPA has these standards, their monitoring center only measures SO2, NO2, and PM. So their stricter CO standards don't seem to factor in, and apparently neither does their O3 limit. This seems significant to me. Only as I was walking into my apartment today did I identify the smell- ozone. So after a bunch more reading, including the formulas for pollution index calculation, I still don't know how comparable the numbers are. Let's stretch and say they correlate perfectly, and read what the EPA has to say about a pollution index of 253:
Very Unhealthy 201-300 Health alert: everyone may experience more serious health effects.
Particulate Matter: People with heart or lung disease, older adults, and children should avoid all physical activity outdoors. Everyone else should avoid prolonged or heavy exertion.
Ozone: Active children and adults, and people with respiratory disease, such as asthma, should avoid all outdoor exertion; everyone else, especially children, should limit outdoor exertion.
In other words, hold your breaths. I'm looking forward to moving somewhere the sun isn't a red disk in a sleet-grey sky.
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
I can't see the ground 14 floors down.
This is from one of my favorite China bloggers, Imagethief:
From my own perspective (literally, as I can see that spot from my window) I imagine this will be quite an eyesore. Chaoyang Park, and the neighboring embassy district, are the one wooded, green part of town for a fair distance. I've joked about this before, but I'll do it again. Chaoyang Park is the largest park in Asia (I mistakenly told my dad the world.) I live on Chaoyang Park West Road. Central Park West in NYC is abbreviated CPW. I live on Beijing's CPW. This is relevant now as a comparison. Can you imagine the uproar if all of the New Yorkers who paid top dollar for a park view apartment were going to get to look at a huge, garishly-lit, carnival ride instead of their sanity-preserving trees? And believe me, it will be garishly lit.
Proving that there is no idea so unoriginal that it can't be rejuvenated by making it bigger, Beijing has announced plans for a colossal Ferris wheel. This, it is claimed, will be larger than both the famous London Eye (destroyed by the Fantastic Four in a recent movie, I recall) and the Singapore Flyer, which Imagethief has often fantasized seeing break free from its moorings and roll across the straits to Batam.
From 208 meters above Chaoyang Park you are guaranteed a spectacular view of, well, Chaoyang Park. But to tantalize you, the China Daily has included this 3D rendering of the proposed wheel of joy pictured before a suspiciously clear sky:
In fact, it's so suspiciously clear that I did a little digging, and sure enough, have found this other, well hidden rendering that depicts the wheel in actual Beijing conditions:
Fun!
From my own perspective (literally, as I can see that spot from my window) I imagine this will be quite an eyesore. Chaoyang Park, and the neighboring embassy district, are the one wooded, green part of town for a fair distance. I've joked about this before, but I'll do it again. Chaoyang Park is the largest park in Asia (I mistakenly told my dad the world.) I live on Chaoyang Park West Road. Central Park West in NYC is abbreviated CPW. I live on Beijing's CPW. This is relevant now as a comparison. Can you imagine the uproar if all of the New Yorkers who paid top dollar for a park view apartment were going to get to look at a huge, garishly-lit, carnival ride instead of their sanity-preserving trees? And believe me, it will be garishly lit.
Sunday, November 4, 2007
Bald.
I'm bald again.
I recently caught myself judging photos of me by whether my thinning hair was evident. Contrary to popular opinion, my hairline has in fact not receded since high school, but it's definitely thinner on top. So, completely disregarding seasonality, I've shaved my head. I didn't really like the 1/4" thing I'd done in the past, so now it's as short as my electric razor will make it. I haven't decided what to do with the beard yet. I know I'm keeping it in some form. I don't think it's so bad as is, but I might transition to something closer to a goatee.
I don't mind thinking about my appearance. I like being in shape, I like clothing, and I like tattoos and my piercings, no matter how inconvenient the eyebrow is with jiu jitsu. What I don't want is my thoughts about my appearance to come from an attitude of apprehension or disappointment or insecurity. My concern was especially useless because of the relative inevitability of losing my hair. I guess I'd rather be bald by choice than by inaction, and let my appearance reflect conscious decisions.
I recently caught myself judging photos of me by whether my thinning hair was evident. Contrary to popular opinion, my hairline has in fact not receded since high school, but it's definitely thinner on top. So, completely disregarding seasonality, I've shaved my head. I didn't really like the 1/4" thing I'd done in the past, so now it's as short as my electric razor will make it. I haven't decided what to do with the beard yet. I know I'm keeping it in some form. I don't think it's so bad as is, but I might transition to something closer to a goatee.
I don't mind thinking about my appearance. I like being in shape, I like clothing, and I like tattoos and my piercings, no matter how inconvenient the eyebrow is with jiu jitsu. What I don't want is my thoughts about my appearance to come from an attitude of apprehension or disappointment or insecurity. My concern was especially useless because of the relative inevitability of losing my hair. I guess I'd rather be bald by choice than by inaction, and let my appearance reflect conscious decisions.
The first pillar is filial piety.
10/29
Pictures from the weekend.
My dad visited this weekend. He was in China for a conference in Shanghai, and arranged a side trip to Beijing to meet with a potential collaborator at Tsinghua, then stayed around for a couple of days. He brought me a whole shopping list worth of stuff, like my sweet new sleeping bag and a mini tripod that might actually work with my front-heavy camera.
We did some of the requisite tourist stuff, including a Forbidden City visit and a trip to the Great Wall. The Forbidden City is big enough that I can go back a couple more times before I think I'll have seen it all and be sick of it. We ended up going to the Mutianyu section of the Wall, one I hadn't been to yet, and that turned out great. There were more people there than at Simatai, and it was more restored, but there was still plenty of vertical movement and it seemed a bit exotic. The trees were settling into their fall colors, and there was even snow in the shade and on the peaks from the previous night's pollution-clearing precipitation. I was afraid the wall might be slick, or that it'd start raining once we got there, but the weather stayed clear enough that you could just make out downtown Beijing some 60km away, probably the farthest I've been able to see in the area.
Daria is coming over Thanksgiving, and she's probably my last visitor before I finish my UN gig. That's likely a good thing, since there's a lot of work left to do and not many weeks to fit it into. I have a meeting tomorrow with a guy from the Chinese Center for Agricultural Policy, and I'm trying to set up meetings with some biotech companies in town, both local and international. I need to start writing more soon, I think, since writing works well to bring into focus what I know and what I don't. It's also a process I enjoy, and when I have a something down on paper I feel like I'm making progress, a feeling that's been elusive for a while.
I'm still not sure what I'm doing next. There's definitely a trip to Vietnam coming up, probably from about December 20 (when my visa expires) until around the 10th, when my brother Mike is tentatively coming to visit. After that I may hang in Beijing for a bit if I end up renting my apartment for another month, then probably touring some of Western and Southern China, as far into the boonies as I can get. My friend Scot is helping me look for English teaching work through his extensive network of contacts in-country, and I'm shopping around online, too. I could get a job tomorrow, it seems, so the point of this exercise is to find the best job in the most attractive location- likely the lower Himalayas in Yunnan province or in the plains leading to Tibet in Qinghai province. I'll write more as I figure it out.
Pictures from the weekend.
My dad visited this weekend. He was in China for a conference in Shanghai, and arranged a side trip to Beijing to meet with a potential collaborator at Tsinghua, then stayed around for a couple of days. He brought me a whole shopping list worth of stuff, like my sweet new sleeping bag and a mini tripod that might actually work with my front-heavy camera.
We did some of the requisite tourist stuff, including a Forbidden City visit and a trip to the Great Wall. The Forbidden City is big enough that I can go back a couple more times before I think I'll have seen it all and be sick of it. We ended up going to the Mutianyu section of the Wall, one I hadn't been to yet, and that turned out great. There were more people there than at Simatai, and it was more restored, but there was still plenty of vertical movement and it seemed a bit exotic. The trees were settling into their fall colors, and there was even snow in the shade and on the peaks from the previous night's pollution-clearing precipitation. I was afraid the wall might be slick, or that it'd start raining once we got there, but the weather stayed clear enough that you could just make out downtown Beijing some 60km away, probably the farthest I've been able to see in the area.
Daria is coming over Thanksgiving, and she's probably my last visitor before I finish my UN gig. That's likely a good thing, since there's a lot of work left to do and not many weeks to fit it into. I have a meeting tomorrow with a guy from the Chinese Center for Agricultural Policy, and I'm trying to set up meetings with some biotech companies in town, both local and international. I need to start writing more soon, I think, since writing works well to bring into focus what I know and what I don't. It's also a process I enjoy, and when I have a something down on paper I feel like I'm making progress, a feeling that's been elusive for a while.
I'm still not sure what I'm doing next. There's definitely a trip to Vietnam coming up, probably from about December 20 (when my visa expires) until around the 10th, when my brother Mike is tentatively coming to visit. After that I may hang in Beijing for a bit if I end up renting my apartment for another month, then probably touring some of Western and Southern China, as far into the boonies as I can get. My friend Scot is helping me look for English teaching work through his extensive network of contacts in-country, and I'm shopping around online, too. I could get a job tomorrow, it seems, so the point of this exercise is to find the best job in the most attractive location- likely the lower Himalayas in Yunnan province or in the plains leading to Tibet in Qinghai province. I'll write more as I figure it out.
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